Japan has a huge amount of climbing areas and even more potential rock. The difficulty for us foreigners is that crag information is sparsely available.
So if you are into rock climbing and visiting or living in Japan, here's one excellent choice for you: Mt. Kazagiyama in Gifu prefecture.
First some facts of Kazagiyama to get you excited:
- 180 boulder problems from 5a to 8c (5.7 to 5.13)
- 20 sport climbing routes from 3 to 8a (5.3 to 5.14)
- Fresh & well maintained routes and strong local community
- Approach from parking area in minutes
- Extensive climbing season from April to November
- Elevation 1000 m
Background info. Some years back Koyadama Dai, one of the three acclaimed Japanese pro climbers, was called in from Kyushu to develop the area.
He worked off the boulders from dusk till dawn and so many of the routes are his heritage. You can checkout Koyadama's latest adventures from his
personal blog.
Unlike in some other areas in Japan, you will not crack bones because of a rusty or a loose bolt, thanks to the active local community who maintain the exiting routes and brush new ones at a steady pace.
The local community, better known as Kazagiyama Climbing Club, has also erected three parking loots and a toilet near the main sectors. For more information about the club and its activities, visit KCC's
home page.
So how do I get there? Kazagiyama is located south of Gifu prefecture next to
Ena City. The closest major city is Nagoya, 70 km west.
It's straightforward to get to Ena by train on the JR Chuo Main Line. That leaves 17 km to the actual climbing area to cover by a rental car, taxi or thumbing (conforming to a common belihitching in Japan is mostly a good option!).
Since the site is not a national park, you can stick your tent to some convenient terrace. But be sure not to litter or pull a mighty dump where people are walking. Self evident stuff, aye?
When to visit? The sectors are situated at 1000 m above sea level on the face of Kazagiyama. That means you can climb even between the frying-hot summer months of July and August. Consequently thick snow prevents climbing from December to March.
I need a topo! The local community, together with Koyadama-san has bound an extensive guide book for the area naturally in Japanese. It goes by the name 笠置山クライミングエリアガイドブック (Kazagiyama Climbing Guide Book) and is currently the only available topo. If really needed, order it before your trip for 3000 yen from the local KCC community. The guide book is a rare article with limited availability.
There's no day without some friendly Japanese climber in the area, so I recommend to couple up with them. That way you can forget about the topo as well!
I was lucky enough to send a random message to one of the active members of KCC who then, without previously knowing me, gave a ride to the crags, and spend a day introducing the area of Kazagiyama. I am extremely thankful to him and his friends for the experience ...and for the ingenious "onsite" coffee!
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